In my last post I said I would do a bit of a write up about the Domaines we visited. Above is a picture of a bottle from each. Before I move on to the Domaines themselves, this picture neatly illustrates some of the hallmarks of German wine production that are still very evident in Alsace to this day. Not only are each of these wines Riesling, a German grape variety, the bottles are tapered ‘flute’ bottles which are the traditional shape for German wines and the bottles are all varietally labelled, another German practice. These bottles represent only 5 producers in Alsace. There are, in fact, 4,400 growers and 1,200 producers in Alsace divided between 900 estates, 19 co-operatives and 73 negotiants. However, eighty percent of Alsace’s wine production comes from just 175 producers. Many of the larger domaines are still family owned. Because of the relatively large number of permitted grape varieties in Alsace and the various bottlings of both single varietal, blends and some special terroirs or single vineyards (lieu-dit) even the small producers may produce 6 to 8 different wines and the larger producers many more. A brief review follows of those featured here …
Trimbach was established in 1626 and is now in the hands of the thirteenth generation. It produces a wide range of wines from classics to Grand Crus as well as the very special, iconic in fact, and much coveted ‘Clos Ste Hune‘ from the Rosacker vineyard in Hunawihr (a lieu-dit). Trimbach makes its wines in the traditional style, reserved and elegant, not overstated. Hubert Trimbach paraphrased the Trimbach style as “concentrated, not heavy; fruity, not sweet; bracing rather than fat; polite rather than voluptuous“! In 2009 Trimbach released its first ever terroir named wine, Riesling Grand Cru Geisberg. There may be a second grand cru on its way …
Maison Hugel was established in 1639 and is also a family run business that has passed down through generations. Like Trimbach this estate produces an impressive and diverse selection of wines, from traditional dry Rieslings and other noble varieties to blends, Grand Crus and the famous sweet wines of Alsace. The Hugel family has played an important role in the Alsace wine industry, including helping to formulate protection laws. It was a Hugel that obtained the official seal of approval for the vendange tardives and selection de grain nobles designations (they are not AOCs). Like many other Alsacian producers Hugel has introduced some of its own labelling terms to single out particular wines in their range, most notably perhaps their ‘Grossi Laue‘ label (translated as ‘great growths’).
Domaine Ostertag was established in 1966 (now second generation), a mere ‘baby domaine’ compared with the likes of Trimbach and Hugel. No less impressive in its production mind you. Ostertag has broken the Alsacian mould and has even been described as ‘revolutionary’. Andre Ostertag first hit the headlines in 1983 when his Muenchberg Pinot Gris was denied the right to be labelled as such, having parted with tradition and and aged it in oak … quelle horreur! From there he didn’t look back. Unusually for Alsacian wines that are generally vinified and matured protectively and anaerobically, Ostertag ages its Pinot Blanc (aka Klevner), Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir in oak barrels on their lees. Rejecting the official classifications of the AOC Ostertag has made up its own categories; Vin de Fruits (expressing fruity characteristics), Vin de Pierre (reflecting the terroir) and Vin de Temps (time and weather and the encouragement of botrytis). The domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1997 with a focus on low yields and maximum ripeness.
Domaine Josmeyer, a little more mature than Ostertag having been established in 1854 (now fifth generation), has been certified biodynamic for twenty years. The domaine owns twenty five hectares of vineyards, all within 3 kilometres of Wintzenheim, near Colmar, a fifth of which are within the Grand Cru AOC of Brand and Hengst, renowned for its exceptional terroir. One of this domaine’s wines (‘Le Dragon‘, pictured above) is said to have been inspired by a local legend of a dragon which fought the sun, lost and retreated to a cave at the top of this vineyard to die. Josmeyer plants its vines densely, encouraging the roots to deepen. Grapes are handpicked and not de-stemmed, fermentation occurring with natural yeasts. Fermentation takes place in 100 year old casks where some lees ageing also occurs. This domaine has an impressive range of wines and their labels are designed by one of the owners whose artistic skills are clearly in evidence. The wines are dry and characterised by freshness, complexity and minerality.
And last, but by no means least, Domaine Leon Beyer. I am truly in love with their Comtes d’Eguisheim labels (as well as the wine of course)! The Beyer family have been involved in wine production in Alsace since the 1580s but this domaine was established in 1867 and their wines are distinct for their full flavoured, full bodied, concentrated wines that are capable of gaining great complexity over time. This domaine has holdings in Eguisheim’s two Grand Crus, Eichberg and Pfersigberg. Across their holdings grapes are picked fully ripe and fermented at higher temperatures than may be the norm, often in large oak casks. Despite higher sugar content arising out of full ripeness their wines are always fermented to dryness. Importantly, a key focus of the domaine’s wine making is to produce wines that are perfect with food. Interestingly, historically the current owner has been a vociferous critic of the Grand Cru system, claiming that it can serve as a cover for inferior wines and choosing not to market their wine as Grand Cru but that is changing now.
I look forward to the day when I can revisit Alsace and some of the familiar domaines as well as some new ones too …